Suliere's Blog

Well, we had to leave Ragged Island in May 2013 to rush back to Ft Lauderdale and home because of a family illness so there is much to tell that we have missed out of this blog.

However we did make a video of the entire adventure down to Ragged and back to Lauderdale and you can see a trailer of here:-

You can purchase the full video for $10 USA.

To bring you up to date we are now back in Lauderdale and about to leave for the Bahamas in the morning.

This time we plan our normal deep water route to Nassau to check in and then down the Exumas and the Jumnetos Cays to Cuba. This will only take a few weeks.

Cuba is where we intend to spend some 3 months and will be filming our adventure. WiFi contact is very poor there, so do not expect too much in the way of blog entries.

18 May 2013

Left  Racoon Cay quite early but no big rush, headed out on a lovely day.  Took it in turns at the helm.  I did form 7 to 2.30, Paul took over from 2.30 to 7.30 when I woke up anyway.

As we lift the anchor this little Sergeant Major has made his home around our anchor chain and stays with us right until the last link! Aww bless 🙂

We leave Ragged island in great sea conditions with a good wind and little swell.

LURE LOSS STORY

A good book helps pass the time.

A lovely days for sailing!

The sun goes down on our first days sailing

19 May 2013

Paul went straight to bed at 7 when I took over and the day rolled on.  Lovely seas conditions, screecher up but engines on.  Fishing New lure went in but lost in first hour!  Second Lure went in lost in 20 mins, Third lure went in and caught 2 barracuda after that we gave in! I had a kip in the afternoon and took over at 6.30 after tea.  Paul went straight to bed.  On my watch the extinguisher went off again and frightened me as there were some big ships about. Got the engine going again so it hadn’t overheated, I’d been watching the dials anyway and nothing had shown as unusual. Kept going until 2.30 again but it was tough as my one eye was so sore.

Sailing under Screecher power

Number one Lure, could we get lucky?

Number two lure

Number two lure brings in a………… Barracuda

……….. and another Barracuda!

All is calm, all is peaceful

Once more into the helm!

AS the sky darkens it takes on a new life like a silhouette of spooky cartoon characters.

20 May 2013

Rain Storm

Fort Lauderdale looms into view

We arrive in Fort Lauderdale as a heavy cloud presents itself.

20 June 2013
Arrived back in fort Lauderdale at noon.  As we approached the channel we’d seen a large storm cloud looming over Fort Lauderdale and had been  making wishes for it to hold off until we’d navigated our way 7 miles up the new River to Lauderdale marine Centre and our dock.  Although we had timed it perfectly for the lifting of the first bridge which only opens half hourly,  we had not timed it for the storm that hit!  Wow the rain certainly came down lashing us so that within minutes we were soaked having opened the sides to have easy access for fendering ropes etc.  What could we do but as they say  ‘Smile  and carry on’. we’d had a good crossing and we were now ready to dock.

Smiling faces greeted us and helped us with our lines, hugs all round and it was certainly time for a lovely warm shower and that bacon butty I’d promised Paul!

So this was then end of the cruising season for us, we’d had some marvellous adventures, met interesting people seem some amazing places and had lots of stories to tell when we get home.  We left Suliere with the traditional ongoing jobs list and headed for home and some much need family time.

We head up the Mangrove lined canal into Duncan Town

Conch shells make a great contribution to any new construction.

Hurricane damaged buildings tell a tale

October 31 2012 Hurricane Sandy hit the island damaging many homes, flooded the school and lifted tons of salt from the salt ponds into the buildings.

Nothing is ever considered past repair in the islands.

The local store, stock depleted.

There arent many cars on the island making the number plates easy to remember!

Take a guess…….

Did you get it right? This is Conch meat hanging out to dry. Once the flesh is dehydrated it can last for ten years.

View from Duncan Town

The Salt Ponds being reestablished after hurricane Sandy washed tons of accumulated salt away.

Marcel talked to us about life on Ragged and clearly outlined his hopes and dreams.

Marcel takes us to school

We are welcomed by the teachers and students and allowed to wonder around before the afternoons lessons began.

The classrooms were cool and calm and interesting.

One paediatrician, one physiotherapist, seven pilots and two technicians. The hopes and dreams of the youngsters of Ragged island.

Doug comes over to dinner – our last and farewell supper in the Jumentos Islands.

A lovely evening reflecting on the ups and downs of our cruising lives.

We arrived at Ragged Island at around 12.30 after a leisurely start and motor cruise and settled in getting to know our anchorage.  Firstly launched Slurpy and attempted to make it to Duncans Town but Slurpy alas broke down.  Minor problem as it transpired that  Paul had closed the valve causing an air lock but at least we could sort that out and we hadn’t drifted to far.   Within seconds of thinking ourselves lucky, a large wave broke on our beam soaking us both. All efforts wasted,  we headed back to Suliere!  I hadn’t wanted to go until tomorrow anyways!

When cruising you are always balancing home life with how long to be away.  My (Lesley) daughter had been having problems since having Spinal surgery lst October but news reached me on this day that something cataclysmic had happened to her fusion and she was now bed bound and highly medicated.  We didn’t skip a heartbeat in deciding that it was time to return home and care for Laura.

And so it was that suddenly were at the end of our trip  when it had almost been the beginning of our new adventure.  Not to worry, Cuba will still be there next year and hopefully my daughter will be fixed up and recovering by then. Anything else is at this stage unthinkable.

A much needed shot of rum at bedtime!

16 May 2013
We arrived  at Ragged Island around 12.30 and settled in, its always so lovely to arrive, set the anchor, get tidy and begin to relax into our new surrounds.

Our Anchorage at Ragged Island

We launched Slurpy and attempted to make it to Duncan’s Town but Slurpy  had a nervous breakdown en route for reasons best know to Paul ((Turned out Paul had closed the valve which caused a lack of air.  This then caused an air lock but at least we could sort that out and we hadn’t drifted to far), Whilst trying to rectify the problem a large wave lashed us soaking us both to the skin so it was back to Suliere  for a shower, cuppa and a Chelsea bun!

Some of you may already know that lesley’s daughter had spinal surgery last  October and three operations to follow in an attempt to close the wound so Lesley had remained in at home while Paul departed in November to get work done on Suliere.  When Lesley eventually left home in March she was comforted by the knowledge that Laura was making a steady recovery, getting back into her working routine slowly but surely and all with the co-operation of her employer.

Over the past couple of weeks we had been receiving news that she was in pain and then worse,  experienced  a serious relapse and was struggling to cope alone.  We had both been getting increasingly unhappy about Laura being alone  especially as in theory we still another 6 weeks  to cruise Cuba ahead of us.  We made the decision to go home, anything else was unthinkable and  this would be the easiest time for us to leave  rather than in another couple of weeks when we would be who know where in Cuba.  At this stage we hadn’t paid medical insurance, cruising permit and entry fees etc and might get the ‘Cuba’ aspect of our insurance back hopefully- which we did.

Of course we arrived at this decision with mixed feelings, suddenly we were nearing the end of our adventure when it had almost been the beginning of a new adventure.  We were relieved knowing that Lesley would be heading back to assist Laura in getting the help she needed and Paul fully supportive and keen to get home himself having been away for 7 months by this time.  Cuba will still be there next year we agreed and most importantly Laura will be getting the love, help and support she so badly needs at this time.   We had always said that we would always be the masters of our cruising year and not the other way around,  situations like this exemplify our whole attitude to cruising.

With this decision made our hearts felt a little lighter knowing it was the right thing to do.  We watched a movie and then input the waypoints for our journey homeward bound.

14 May 2013

We anchored in about 3.5 metres just out from the beach on this deserted Island.

We could not help but to go to the beach and enjoy the snorkelling and a walk.

Upon returning to Suliere were were a little surprised to hear someone knocking on the hull …… it was a chap in a small boat and a very pleasant chap at that but where had he come from? What did he want?

Introducing himself as Holland Griffin he had come to see us trading Cray Fish and Conch for anything he may need because he was currently thje sole resident on the island!

His friend currently in Nassau had inherited the Cay and they both lived there in a one story, one roomed building that before the last hurricane had been a two story two roomed home!

Holland told his story, showed us Queen Conch Shell.  Lives in now a one story house on Bueana Vista, the wind took the top story off!

We watch as the small boat approaches us.

Paul chats with Holland Griffin, a natural raconteur.

Queen Conch Shell

Left soon after Gillean, but eventually overtook Doug.

We pass Doug in Gillean on the way to Racoon Cay

found a postcard perfect anchorage, Doug just around the corner, he popped over for a natter and filed its in on the Loyalist wall ashore before heading off for his day.

Suliere at anchor in Racoon Cay

We wasted no time in getting Kayaks off, snorkelling, walking the beach and getting back on board.

We kayak ashore to explore

We walk along the stunning beach at Racoon Cay

We find Trilobite fossils along the shore.

The Flip Flop Tree

The birds make a noisy gathering on the sore

Picturesque Racoon Cay

After showers I spotted 2 sharks in the vicinity, really does beg the question…….!

The sun goes down on Racoon Cay

15 May 2013

Today we have  the windy day we were promised on the forecast, so Lesley made the most by catching up with some housework and but spent equal amounts of time  holding down the tramps in the sunshine  – it’s a hard job but she willingly volunteers on a regular basis whilst reading and cloud watching.  After lunch she decided to attempt making Chelsea cinnamon  buns and a new rice to go with the Pork Tenderloin for tea. Rice with veggies and hot chilli cooked in coconut milk with the Teriyaki pork which turned out to be delicious.

There was something particularly special about sitting out in the sunshine  mid afternoon with a lovely hot cup of tea and a warm, freshly baked Chelsea bun.

Chelsea buns with a cinnamon twist

Warm and delicious

Birds come in to feed at dusk

After  a relaxing day on board we watch as dusk begins to fall  the Black Headed Gulls head to shore for a late feed before sundown.  We settle down to watch  How ‘Earth Flight’ was made followed by the ‘Old Curiosity Shoppe’ making a lovely end to our day at Racoon Cay.  Of all the islands so far Racoon has been the most picturesque and we have already decided to put it on our returns list.

13 may 2013 Long sandy beach mile and a half.  Left Nurse cay  10.25 arrived  Buena Vista 11am!

We approach Buena Vista

As we arrived, Doug came over to look at anchor and spotted huge Barracuda under boat….. about 4 foot long.  We kayaked ashore and had a walk along the deserted beach.  As there was a nice reef near the boat, upon returning to the boat we decided to snorkel to it.t Nice little reef, so decided to brave it to the one off the boat.  got back , prepared and went in.  Paul said barracuda was gone, but I looked and there he was following us.  We got spooked and went back to be safe not sorry!  Decided he was just curious and set off again thinking he wouldn’t follow twice but he came a little too close so we decided to get back on board as it was a great barracuda known to attack.  Saw his teeth and that was enough for me! We were later told by the fisherman – Holland Griffin that Barracudas will follow but he’s never see one attack and he’s a spear fisherman too. Kayaked Ashore showered and cooked Larry and gorged ourselves  on lobster before heading out onto the tramps for a sleep. No sooner had we got the shade up that 8 noisy guys turned up from the fishing boat ‘SPLISH! SPLASH!’ to play ball on the beach and make a racket.  Bah humbug!   After they left over an hour later I fell asleep!

Fishing Vessel Splish! Splash!

Woke up and had a cuppa then kayaked ashore again to take a Walk ashore before sunset.

The sun goes down over Buena Vista

Back to the boat to read and watch more of Earth Flight- Condor.

12 May 2013

We arrived and anchored in  deserted Nurse Cay with its beautiful white sand beach  and clear waters.

Nurse Cay, a beautiful unspoilt bay of white sands and turquoise waters.

We could here the call of this Osprey that stayed with us all afternoon.

These amazing undercuts often several meters eventually give way with further erosion and collapse.

The Jumentos Islands are truly unspoilt and completely undeveloped. Here at Nurse Cay fisherman stop by to take shelter from the weather and clean their catch but only wildlife and goats live here.

Sometimes the large eroded undercuts collapse.

We were approached by some very friendly fisherman – Fishing Boat Sweet Angeline who chatted with us before offering to bring us some Grouper for tonights Dinner.  They and sent a man ashore to cook up the bait for their fishing pots, we were glad to be upwind of the cooking pot- a huge oil drum on an open fire.

We meet Ronstan Shaun and Kalvin and talk about life in the islands

Ronstan brings us a lovely Grouper for dinner

We feel so very lucky when Ronstan returns with a nice sized Grouper which he proceeded ro fillet and clean for us whilst chatting about life.  We had seen several sharks in this bay and no realised that they were used to scavenging fish guts and waste from the fishing boat.

The boys from Fishing Boat Sweet Angeline.

Boys and their toys! The boys mess about in their boat spaying water about with their outboard seeing how high they can make the fountain go!

The boys are in high spirits and mess about in the bay before leaving us in peace.  Later we met them ashore with our friend Doug and had a bonfire and some very good rum.  Conversations of life,  of love and of course how to handle women-  seem to be of great concern wherever you are in the world.  Being the only woman their I hadn’t the heart to tell them they had it all wrong!

10 May 2013
We left Rocky Point at 8 am in good weather but better than that -the storm hadn’t blown a hole through the boat while we slept!   We had a great  sail hoofing along at 8- 9 knots most of the way with Main and Genoa up but both feeling very tired after last night getting very little sleep until 4am when the storm abated but then awakened at 6 by a wonderful dawn chorus.

At 3pm we arrived at Flamingo Cay, we could see three other masts along the island but all appeared to be in a bay of their own. There was also a fishing boat called Double M  at anchor.

Flamingo Cay, Two Palms Bay, where we found only one palm!

Fishing boat Double M

We had chosen a spot in Two Palms Bay and headed in finding ourselves in the  same bay as a yacht called Gillean as there was plenty of space though we could only spot one palm not two, this was something of a mystery to us!

Gillean, our companion Doug’s boat.

We were just setting the bridle up when we heard a voice calling to us,  it was the guy from the other  yacht who introduced himself as Doug from Gillean. We chatted for a while and he invited us to join him for a bonfire on the beach later at dusk.

The Lion of Flamingo Cay

Back at Suliere we launched  Splish and Splash and paddled ashore with our snorkel gear at to explore the rocky  undercut of the island and the shoreline.  As mentioned Lesley is not a great swimmer but found some confidence to take off her float aid and dive to pick up Sand Dollars from the bottom which felt like great progress. In such a beautiful bay we couldn’t help but play around and explore.

We Kayak ashore to explore

We wonder along the shore and find some amazing fossilised conch shells  perfectly preserved and wonder how old they might be.

On the beach we find fossilised Conch shells

Mystery solved! We find the second palm of Two Palms Bay but sadly it was no longer standing.

Mystery solved! We find the second palm of Two Palms Bay but sadly it was no longer standing.

Around 7 we joined Doug on the beach for the bonfire taking a few drinks with us.  We soon got the bonfire going, Lesley got busy collecting sticks and tending the fire, said it bought out her Girl Guiding instincts, unfortunately we had no marshmallows to toast!  We sat around chatting  and sharing our travels stories until late.  3 shooting stars dazzled us with their brilliance and made the day complete.  Sigh!

The sun goes down on Flamingo Cay

Bonfire with Doug

11th May 2013

We head off in Slurpy to explore a little more of this stunningly beautiful, unspoilt uninhabited island.   We saw a huge turtle who came quite close but then d0ve down and we lost sight of him as we headed towards  a rusty ship wreck that probably had a tale to tell.  Beautiful beaches in every cove and  pristine snorkelling everywhere.

Sunken ships to intrigue us.

The cruising guide had mentioned a cave, so we set off to find it.

As we head along the rocky coast line we find the Cave we had been hoping to explore.

Light filters into the cave through rocky windows

Read More…

9th May 2013

Paul rattled Lesley’s feet at 7.45am and  by 8 we were on our way leaving Little Farmers Cay behind us but taking our happy memories with us.  We sailed well for the first couple of hours but then things got a bit frisky for an hour and wind the dropped so we motor sailed.  As the wind picked up we sailed on a reefed genoa and full main doing the trip in some 6.5 hours as against the planned 8 hours so not bad going.

We  had planned to spend the night at anchor just south of Great Exuma as an overnight stop before heading off to the deserted Ragged Islands. In going over the  Explorer charts Lesley spotted the Rocky Point anchorage and Paul agreed that it was the best place to anchor.

Alone at Rocky Point

Rocky Point was, as expected completely deserted,  we were now leaving the beaten path and heading off to a chain of  deserted Cays. Whilst at Oceans Cabin bar at Little Farmers Cay another cruiser was surprised to hear that we were heading off to the Ragged Islands saying “but there is nothing there”. Our response was that is exactly why we wanted to go there!  The cruising guides warned that sailing in the Ragged chain of Cays required experience and self reliance…… we had been warned and were well prepared finding the prospect exciting and challenging.

Arriving at Rocky point in the afternoon we set about relaxing and planned to have an early.  Lesley  absorbed herself  watching the mountainous clouds building all around us with an ominous glow and trying to get photos but nothing seemed to capture their magnitude .  By  4 pm as the skies darkened it was clear to see  ‘theres lightenin’ in them there clouds’  Thunder rumbling around us- GO AWAY! AWAY! ……. but there was nowhere else for us to go and no way of escaping what seemed to be as building thunderstorm on rather a large scale.

The clouds begin to darken

Truly an unforgettable night of thunder and lightening and we with our 74 ft of mast were the highest lightening conductor for many a mile. the interesting thing was that the clouds built to the left, to the right and seemed to meet up where they had passed us but overhead the sky remained clear- could we really be that lucky?

Small clouds begin to expand and tower above us on all sides

As dusk falls the clouds get darker and we can see lightening in them with heavy rain Squalls

Well was like the charge of the Light Brigade, lightening in front of us, on each side of us and sometimes behind us.  Not just single bolts coming down to the water but spectacularly with multiple bolts at a time.  We sat and watched for hours with mixed feelings of awe, wonder and primal fear.  By 1am there was no sign of a reprieve so decided to head to bed to try and get some sleep (HA!).  We  put some of our precious electricals in to the microwave, dishwasher and washing machine ‘just in case’ – note to self- dont forget to remove aforementioned precious items before putting a load in!   We settled ourselves on the port stern bed making sure we kept clear of the sides and stayed  the foam mattress. The centre berths are right alongside the mast and hence possibly the best place to be if you wish to experience the lightening bolt as it fires its way down the mast,  through your  barbecued body and into the sea. Funny what pictures your imagination can conjure at such times!

There really is nothing much you can do in such circumstances except wait to see if you escape unscathed or not …. It’s a very helpless feeling. After many hours of Mother Nature showing off her awesome power we eventually drifted off to sleep.  It had been a scary night that had at times reminded us of our solitude and vulnerability.

On the 7th May when we left Black Point there wasn’t a breath of wind and the sea as smooth as a sheet of glass.

Sailing on Glass

So calm and peaceful.

We had no choice but to motor the two hours it took to reach Little Farmers Cay with its tiny population.

We motored to Little Farmers, not a breath of wind.

We anchored of the western shore and settled down for the evening.

No need to dive on the anchor!

Lesley even put the fishing line out having spotted some good sized jacks darting around the hulls but we didnt get lucky this time.

Lesley prepares the marinade for our spare rib supper tonight.

The sun goes down on another perfect day

8 may 2013

In the morning we took Slurpy into the small harbour where we were warmly greeted by a team of fisherman busily de-shelling the mountains of Conch that surrounded them.  Even the local policeman had rolled up his sleeves to help out

Everyone gets busy

Chatting with the fisherman Lesley was treated to the taste of fresh, raw Conk … in fact it may have still been considered alive!

Would you eat it….?

Lesley was surprised that the conch didn’t taste fishy but quite nutty with a firm chewy texture as she nibbled away. Not unpleasant but not high on her gourmet list.

Lesley tastes the raw Conch

The harbour had a number of large  Stingrays coming into feed also an Eagle Ray feasting on the conch scraps,  we also spotted a shark doing the same.  A small turtle also joined the fray then spotting his competitors made a sharp exit.

Rays feed on the Conch scraps

We walked past the basket weaving ladies and on up to a little bar for a drink. The whole scene was so natural and wonderful we simply loved it

Very little crime to report

with a very low crime rate we are told that the police sometimes help to settle disputes on the Cay where of course everybody knows everybody else …. In this case the population is about 50.

Baskets for Sale. On elittle person had the right idea!

We head into the village

Terry the Old Philosopher

Time for a snooze

A genuine glimpse into the lives of these island dwellers who make their living from the sea.  A close-up into the lifestyles on these small Cays.